Wayang kulit - Javanese shadow puppets

Sugriwa, King of the Monkeys (pictured right) – note that he only has one eye visible. Monkeys and demons are usually thought to have two eyes visible, however this is a general principle rather than a hard and fast rule. It can be broken this way round (one-eyed monkeys and demons) but very rarely, if ever, the other way (two-eyed humans).

Wayang kulit is a wonderful world of its own, but it does need a bit of effort from a non-Javanese audience to meet it on its own terms.

If you go to Java, do go and see wayang; it’s a vital part of the Javanese experience, to say nothing of its importance as a musical form.

And remember, it starts very slowly. The first three hours or so of a nine-hour performance are largely dedicated to the subtle use of court Javanese.

A common ‘tourist’ complaint about wayang runs – ‘We turned up at 9 o’clock and sat there for an hour and a half and nothing seemed to be happening so we left’.

Well a lot was happening, but it was happening in Javanese.

A better bet would be to:

a) go to a short (two-three hour) show;

b) turn up at around midnight, when the clowns are getting into their stride;

c) be more relaxed about the whole thing, eat, drink, talk to people and occasionally even watch the puppetry when it gets interesting; or...

d) come to one of my performances in English.

Putri – female puppets.

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